Travelling while black: Thailand

So I’ve noticed that black people don’t really travel east for their holidays. Europe, yes. North America, yes. Africa, from time to time. Caribbean, again, from time to time. But in terms of the people I have on social media, Asia doesn’t seem to pop up very often.

I recently came back from a 10 day holiday in Thailand (Sawadee khrup!) which started off in Koh Samui, moved on to Phuket, with our last stop being the Phi Phi islands. The trip, like any, had it’s ups and downs. But while I was posting all the pics of the highs, living my best life, I had a recurring question from my followers: How was it travelling as a black person in Thailand? Did you encounter any racism? Do people stare at you? Did anyone try to touch your hair?

So I reflected and decided to write down my experience as a black woman over in the South East of the world. May as well get the negatives out of the way first.

The negatives:

• Clubbing: Thailand is not for the black female clubber. On the occasions were we visited the main strip in Phuket (Bangla road) we received odd looks from security guards upon entry. I think Illuzions & Sugar were probably the worst experiences. Upon entering the club it was very obvious that the bar staff were taking their sweet time to get to us to take our orders. Similarly, we were invited into the VIP area on both nights by guys we were met, only to be told by security guards that we couldn’t enter despite seeing countless girls of other races waltz on in. This was particularly annoying as both clubs were playing ‘black’ music exclusively (never thought I’d hear ‘Joanna’ but there you go) along with having an African American guy on stage to hype the crowds. When we asked to speak with the managers we were told that they aren’t allowed to say who they are lol. Apart from that, I wasn’t ready for the prostitutes. A lot of them look like babies. The youngest I spotted looked around 12. Maybe it’s my naive mind but I was shocked and the sheer number. Safe to say that if I return, it wont be to visit the clubs.

• General public: Generally speaking, the people were lovely. So polite, always willing to help. While in Koh Samui in particular, people would go out of their way to make sure that we had the best stay possible. It also wasn’t like from what I had read online of black people in Northern Asia where people are touching their hair and taking photos (with or without permission). People in Thailand are definitely used to seeing various races, although do not necessarily accommodate for them. I did not come across one black hair or skin care product while over there. I am not necessarily judging this as a bad thing considering their population is 92% Thai. But it is an observation to take into account for longer trips over there.
• Attraction: From what I found, Thai guys aren’t looking at different races in general. We travelled as a group of four, three black girls and one white girl. Out of the group the white girl definitely got the most attention from both inhabitants and tourists. One guy approached me on my last night in Phuket at the New Moon party (yes that is a thing they are trying to bring into affect now lol) from Manchester. Other than that it was a pretty dry spell for me and the other two black girls on the trip.
• Weather: We went during rainy season (May-October), and mate… it rained lol. It was warm & wet most days, more rain than i have seen come down in London. So get those box braids done before you fly.

The positives:

• It is beautiful: What are the most beautiful places in Thailand? It’s hard to narrow it down, to be honest. With thousands of temples, tons of gorgeous scenery from north to south, and glistening beaches with towering karst islets, the unique landscape is what has made Thailand so famous worldwide.

• Animals!!: Thailand is home to a wide range of animals, many of which can be spotted in their natural habitats as well as conservation areas and zoos.  It’s genuinely a country with beautiful beaches, thick jungles, rivers, lakes, waterfalls, and plenty of national parks. If there is one animal you HAVE to see it is the Elephants – their national animal. If you visit the Phi Phi islands you’re most likely to see some monkeys (don’t fed them though, I saw this one guy have his whole bag of crisps rushed).
• Food (…omg): Personally I prefer Thai food over any other Asian cuisine. The curries have a solid mix between heat and sweet (ohhh look at me dropping bars lol). Traditional Thai cuisine loosely falls into four categories: tom (boiled dishes), yam (spicy salads), tam(pounded foods), and gaeng(curries). Deep-fries, stir-fries, and steamed dishes derive from Chinese cooking. Aesthetically it tends to be a work of art, so you’re going to get some decent snaps for your insta story. I would just make sure you have all your shots before trying the street food (Typhoid, Hepatitis A & B)

• Spas: You can very easily tell the difference between the legit spas and the spa spas lol, as in the spas which will give you a ‘happy ending’. The ‘happy ending’ spas tend to have a bunch of women in uniforms hanging outside waiting to try to pull you in, but the regular ones are… well regular. But you cannot go to Thailand without having a massage. When I tell you that this woman sorted out the years of sitting at an office desk hunched over a computer (yes I have only been working for 2 years but it’s still plural lol). So treat yo self!!!!

What to bring:

• Vitamin B: Great for keeping your immune system up… Which is important even if you haven’t had your jabs but even more important if you haven’t… lol. STOP JUDGING ME I DIDNT HAVE TIME OK!
• Dissolvable milk thistle pills: This will keep your stomach in check whether it’s not working or working overtime… If you know what I mean.
• Water shoes: You will need these for most water based activities you may plan on doing. When we went to the Phi Phi islands in particular we basically needed it for the whole trip as you have to walk across relatively rocky sand to get to the shores. Don’t play yourself and buy them at the excursion.
• Mosquito bracelets (… air fresheners and spray): Being a tropical climate, the mosquitoes are out and they aren’t here to play. After basically being destroyed by them in Jamaica & Rotterdam, I knew that this was war and I had to prepare. You can find mosquito bracelets on Amazon along with room air fresheners (just remove the lid to activate), and your regular bug spray.
• Raincoat: Tropical means rainy as well as heat. We went during the rainy season which was shocking as a Londoner as there was
• Waterproof phone case w string: Even if you have a waterproof phone, I would recommend a case for activities such as parasailing, snorkelling, washing elephants etc lol. It is just good to have it dangling around your neck rather than keeping it in hand.
• Vaping: This is more ‘what not to bring’. Vaping is illegal in Thailand and can result to up to 10 years imprisonment if caught by the police. Possession of it is legal, but personally I wouldn’t be out and about doing it. In private is fine.

Where to go:

Ok so I only went to three different places throughout my time in Thailand because I didn’t know what the hell I was doing lol. So this list is purely based off of Koh Samui, Phuket and the Phi Phi islands:

• The Big Buddah: It’s big… & hella peaceful up there. Dress appropriately (full length bottoms with covered shoulders) as it is a religious site.

• Elephant sanctuary: DO NOT RIDE THE ELEPHANTS ON THE WAY UP TO THE BIG BUDDAH. Riding is bad for their backs and those animals are almost always abused. Also, don’t go to the Tiger Kingdom either, those tigers are higher on drugs than I’ve ever been. Instead, go to an elephant sanctuary. Ngl you should see an elephant during your time as it’s their national animal. Also, they are incredible animals.

• Bangla road: The main strip of Phuket and where all the sin happens lol. It’s lowkey like Sodom and Gomorrah. Prostitutes, sex shows, drugs, drunkenness, vomit etc etc. It’t not a pretty sight. But it’s one hell of a ride.
• Full Moon Party: DEFINITELY try to arrange your trip so that you can attend the biggest party in Thailand. It’s an all night beach party, and when I say all night, I mean it ends at like 8am lol. Its attractions include fire skipping ropes, alcohol “buckets”, and drugs. There is a very wide spectrum of music ranging from trance, to drum and bass, to reggae. You can get tickets which provides accommodation, but in general there tends to be free transportation to popular spots so you can get back to wherever you’re staying easily.
• Wat Chalong: The most important of the 29 buddhist temples of Phuket. It is dedicated to two highly venerable monks, Luang Pho Chaem and Luang Pho Chuang, who led the citizens fighting against the Chinese rebellion in 1876 and with their knowledge of herbal medicine helped the injured.
• Ang Thong National Marine Park: Even if you’ve spent time in other beautiful corners of Thailand – this place has extra-special all over. It’s remote, a few hours’ boat ride from Koh Samui (depending on the boat), though the islands’ composition looks even further removed. (Mountains and rock faces are limestone, as opposed to Koh Samui’s rich, orange-red, earth). The trip’s highlight is Emerald Lake at Ang Thong which you’ll likely recognise from the movie The Beach.
• Changi Airport: Assuming you are travelling long-haul, you will most likely have a stop over. If you can, stop off in Singapore’s Changi airport. This place is mad. Like tbh you could probably have a whole holiday in the airport alone. This place has a waterfall, butterfly garden, swimming pool, crystal garden, experience studio etc etc etc. It is certainly an experience worth having, plus, FREE WIFI!!!

Priscilla McGregor-Kerr

@CillaHope_